Making "Homemade" Tools for your hobby workshop - Ain't Hard!
Whether its a simple sanding block, or something a bit more
complicated. You may already have most of what's required to make the
item, amid your scrap parts - maybe. for example. If not, check out -
Flea Markets, Electronics' Parts Suppliers and local - Auctions & Sales,
for reduced priced - used tools and old parts and items, or even Craft
Stores = for example. You'd be surprised what you'll find for pennies
on the dollar, that can be converted or abused & heavily used - battery
powered - toys.
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The Hot Wire - Foam
Cutter
Tap Drawing
To Enlarge
This thing, easily cuts all types of Styrofoam
( Blocks & Sheets ) into any shape or form desired. I designed my
system to have 2 - Wands, meaning a "Large Bow" = for cutting large foam
hulls, plus a smaller "Hand Wand" for smaller cutting tasks. Like -
for example, carving a stern - tunnel into the foam core of a models
hull. (( WARNING .... This Is Not A Toy! ))
DANGEROUS TO OPERATE!! The Hot Wire gets -
RED HOT and can easily - Burn You .... So
be careful using this device and be sure any helpers - assisting you,
are aware of the dangers too!
HOT WIRE .... Parts
List -
#1 ... Ac or Dc - Model
Train Transformer ( 12 to 18 volts output at 2 - 4 Amps. ) Most any
train transformer will do, including similar Power Transformers with
variable Ac or Dc - outputs. Purchased or Scrapped from your parts,
that meet required Voltage & Amps.
#2 ... Dowel Wood - Rods =
( Handle & Bow ) making parts of 1/4" & 3/4" Dia.. Rods
NOTE ... Make the Bow and Hand Wand to the widths
you require, to cut any size foam.
Usually a ni-chrome wire stretched between
the bow - ends, that's 2 1/2 feet wide - at most. Works fine for most
any job you'll use this system for.
As for the Hand Wand, it should be a U-shaped - short piece of nichrome
wire, about 4 inches in length = between the forks of the wand. Then
before use, shape the wire to desired shapes for carving jobs, then turn
the power - On and gently start carving.
#3 ... Nichrome Wire Sources
= Hobby Shops or Hobby Suppliers = A resistor wire that heats up, to
cut or melt Styrofoam.
#4 ... Two Scrap pieces of
Brass Tubing, used to make - heat insulators to avoid the wood dowel
rods from being burned by the nichrome wire.
INSTRUCTIONS
FOR USE ....... Set your Transformers - voltage settings, at the
lowest voltage setting - First. Then turn the system - On. Slowly
increase the voltage until the "Nichrome Wire" starts to smoke and heat
up. Testing the heat settings on a piece of scrap foam - First,
before you start cutting anything, adjusting the voltage setting
accordingly. WARNING .... Never set the voltage
higher than is needed to cut your foam, Slow & Smoothly. The wire can
be easily - Burn Out and will break apart and easily injure you or
someone else!
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Homemade "Paint Bottle - Shaker!
Powered by
9 volt or AA = Battery Pack, or Small DC Power Supply
Tap Drawing
To Enlarge
This Sucker - Works! Its
cheap and easily mixes small bottles of paint. Just open the bottle
and add a few drops of the proper - Paint Thinner. Then, tighten the
lid and drop the bottle ( Upside Down ), into the shaker. Then - Flip
the Switch and wait a few minuets for the paint to re-mix and its ready
to use again! If you use a deeper - Tin Can, when making your "Paint
Shaker, it will stir - Two Bottles ... At Once. Just wait a few extra
minuets for all paints to become - well shaken, before their used on a
project and check the paints - consistency too. And by the way, make
sure the Tin Can - used to build your - shaker, is large enough to fit
- ALL SIZES" of paint bottles, which you prefer using, or will use
...... "OK!"
The Battery needs
- a long very flexible wire to allow it to be mounted elsewhere on the
table, so make the wires length - doesn;t effect the shaker or stiffen
its motions. So make the wires as long as you need, to be lounted
elsewhere on your bench. And the "Washer", is attached to the motors -
drive shaft, so it wobbles ( drill an Offset Hole into it ), so it
shakes the whole thing..... "The more it wobbles, the better it shakes
the Paint!" Use
CA - Super Glue, to mount the motor = to the bottom of the can, or make
a metal strap to clamp the motor to the can, if you wish, but its gotta
be =TIGHT! And you'll need a couple of small ( 4 ) "Wood Eye Screws"
to mount the can and battery on your workbench. And then just hang
the cans = two rubber bands, on two of the eye screws and the battery
and wire on the othere, so the can hangs loose - by itself. Then add
the bottles of paint - to be mixed and throw the switch and watcher -
Sh-Sh-Sh-A-a-a-a-k!
Paint Shaker - Parts List
#1 ... (4) AA Batteries, or
a 9 Volt Battery, or use a Junked Out = Small DC - Power Supply = 6 to
12 volt output. And wire the power supply into the switch, in place
of the battery system!
#2 ... AA Battery Pack = (
Radio Shack ) plastic Pack - made to hold 4 - AA Batteries.
#3 ... Mini On/Off - Toggle
Switch.
#4 ... ( 3 feet ) of small
insulated - Twin Lead - stranded = Speaker Wire.
#5 ... Small 12 Volt DC
Motor. ( Radio Shack )
#6 ... ( 1 ) Old FLAT -
WASHER, to make the Vibrator. Drill an Off-set
Hole in the washer = Way Off Center, but the same diameter as the motors
- drive shaft diameter is. Then use a couple of drops of CA Glue to
mountit on the shaft of the motor - firmly Just make sure the washer
spins freely and doesn't bump the can as it spins around on the motor's
drive shaft. That will insure a good vibration effect is provided to
the can and the paints inside it, as their mixed or remixed.
#7 ... ( 1 ) Tin Can ( Small
- But Long Enough ) to fit two bottles of paint - inside the can = One
On Top of the Other. ( NOTE ... I used an old
Hair Spray Can - for mine! )
#8 ... ( 2 )
Heavy Duty - Rubber Bands. Used to mount the shaker on your workbench
#9 ... ( 4 )
Wood Eye Screws - Small ones, to screw into the bench, to hang the paint
shaker - On. Plus the Battery Pack too, in a nearby location.
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Build A Model - Transport & Launcher
This idea, is mainly for
"Older & Disabled" Modelers - like myself, needing assistance in getting
models from the vehicle to the pond and then = launched. And this
idea builds - fairly easy, and works great for anyone that needs to save
their backs, from a lot of aches & pains! NOTE .... A common Two
Wheel - Cargo Dolly, may be a bit heavy, but can work also, if provide a
couple of helpful additions. Like for example, a wooden platform to
widen its base to fit the models - hauled on it. Straps of added
arms, to support or hang the tool box - similar the drawings shown below
- shows as an example. Remember, you have a radio ( 's ), plus tools
and support equipment to carry too, besides the boat & barges!
Tap Drawing
To Enlarge
Built from PVC Plastic Pipe ( Dia. of PVC Pipe - Is Your
Choice ), but I'd suggest at least 3/4" diameter pipe for the smallest
diameter of pipe - used. Along with a pair of Old Lawnmower wheels
and a threaded rod for their axles, with a couple of nuts to hold
them. And this could also be remodeled or fashioned out of an old
metal Two - Wheel "Hand Dolly" too. And should "Break- Down" to fit
inside your vehicle. Some builders may want to use a small pair of
soft wheels ( air inflated tires ) , to soften the ride on their models,
which is also - a fine idea too. When transporting boats - long
distances, from a vehicle to the lake or at events, you'll be glad you
built one of these = They sure save your back!
Note the "Handle Bars"
are adjustable in height, and also how their mounted ( IN Either
Direction ) on top of the two vertical back supports of the launcher.
They can be positioned either way, to assist in balancing a model, when
its being launched into the water or just hauled on the
transport/launcher. Just remember to remove
your - Tool Box, prior to launching the model, unless ya like Soggy
Tools!
Parts List -
#1 ...
Several lengths of 1" - 1 1/2" to 2" Diameter - PVC Pipe ( Requires 2
Sizes of pipe - One Fitting into The Other - for the adjustable -
handles ), plus Elbows, T's and End Caps.
#2 ... 30"
Length of "Threaded Rod" for the Axle, plus ( 6 ) Nuts and ( 6 ) Washers
for wheel spacers
#3 ...
( 2 ) Old Lawn Mower - Wheels ......
Option = "Small Air Inflated Tires"
to soften bumps!
#4 ...
Several Large - Cotter Pins, plus a short length of Rope, to tie the
Cotter Pins - to the frame to avoid loosing them, when launching boats.
#5 ... Short
Piece of Carpet ... Glue around frame area of Legs on the Launcher.
Avoids damage to models, as their launched, transported and retrieved.
#6 ...
ADDED OPTION =
Tool Box, a small plastic tool box to hold r/c radios, batteries, parts
and tools.
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Building A Dry-dock
Display / Carrier
Designed
to work with the above - Transport / Launcher
Tap Drawing
To Enlarge
The Dry-Dock & Display / Carrier,
Is designed to be used with the
Above - Boat Launcher Cart. Very simple to make from solid 1
inch thick - Pine Lumber, cut to Lengths & Widths to suit the models
size. This even handles Deep- V hulls, as well as Flat Bottom Boats,
when slight changes are made to adjusted it to suit any type of boat, by
using wedge fittings for V- hulls. These are pegged into the bottom
plate of the carrier / dry-dock, and removable if needed. Makes a
great display too, when a few fancy fittings are included to make it
look realistic. For average sized boats - such as 10 to 35 inches in
length - for example, I use 1 by 4 sides and 1 by 6 - or 1 by 10 or 12
boards for the bottom plate, sealed and stained or painted. Cheap,
easy to make and lasts a long time, this is a great looking model
transport / carrier & display for any model. And best of all, it also
provides some side-hull protection against damage and could even be used
to carry and haul a number of barges - stacked one atop the another....
"Hey, how do ya think I haul all my barges - around!"
I'll Add More - Later, so check
back Often!
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Last Updated On
06/29/23 .
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