It is the Dawn of a New Duck!

We rebuilt him. We had the technology. We had the capability to rebuild the worlds first bionic duck. Vac-U-Duck is that duck.

We made him better than he was before, stronger, faster, waterproof!

At home on your lake or on your mantle!

From its Stainless Steel Prop Shaft supported by Oilite Bearings to the installed and centered Turnigy 9025MG Micro Metal Gear Servo, the Vac-U-Duck is still a fine example of a duck built better than it needs to be.

Ready for your battery, electronic speed control, transmitter, receiver & ballast. Includes painted display stand.

There are no openings in the top of the duck so it will swim happily in the rain or sunshine.

Note: Vac-U-Boat is not responsible if your Vac-U-Duck is so realistic that a nearby hunter shoots it by mistake. 

Instructions for installing your equipment will follow soon.

Click all framed photos to enlarge.

Tanglefree Pro Series Mallard Drake Tanglefree Pro Series Mallard Hen
Self-contained "boat" is attached to the duck with two stainless steel screws. The hull extends up into the duck so water won't block your 2.4 Ghz signal.
The clear hatch lid can be taped down to waterproof the hull in case someone's dog tries to retrieve your Vac-U-Duck by mistake. An inner shelf supports the installed micro metal-gear servo.
The motor is secured with stainless steel screws, removable for service or repair. The Stern Tube is filled with synthetic grease. The installed rudder is connected to the servo with a stainless steel pushrod.
The front shelf can mount your receiver above the waterline with room to hold a lightweight electronic speed control or other electronics. There is plenty of room to insert battery packs or ballast next to, or in front of the motor. Vac-U-Duck hanging with his peeps.
Store in a Walmart Tool Box for under $10.00. Put a small towel in the bottom for padding.

For pricing, see the Kits, Parts, and Accessories page.


There are other electronics options out there, like an ESC and battery made for 1/18 scale model cars that have smaller wires & connectors and still have plenty of capacity for the small motor in this duck. The motor draws only about 1/2 amp (500 mAh) at full throttle. ESCs should be "Forward-Reverse". Many on EBAY can have a "Brake" function that requires toggling the trigger twice to engage reverse. Avoid "Forward/Reverse/Brake" and "Forward/Brake" ESCs. Batteries can be from 1,200 mAh to 2,000 mAh. We will post some examples of installing standard electronics soon.

A pistol radio transmitter and receiver.

Economical 2 channel radios are available.

Channel 1 for the rudder and channel 2 for the throttle (Electronic Speed Control).

Newer pistol transmitters like these are three-channel radios. The third channel could be used to control a speaker or light.

A reversible Electronic Speed Control (ESC) made for a standard brushed motor. Most have Battery-Eliminator-Circutry (BEC) that also provides power for the Receiver as well as for the motor.

If you are using a six-cell 7.2V Nickel-Metal-Hydride rechargeable battery (NiMh) or a two-cell 7.4V Lithium Polymer rechargeable battery (LiPoly) your ESC should have a "Low-Voltage Cut-Off" selector switch on it to make sure it is set for the appropriate type of battery to avoid damaging the battery by over-discharging.

While a waterproof ESC is a bonus, the inside of the duck normally stays dry so a non-waterproof model car ESC will do.

Important that the ESC has the correct plug for the battery you choose. If not you will have to change the plug on the ESC or the battery.  

Both of these ESC's have the round connectors to fit the stock motor plugs in the duck.

The Quicrun 1060 handles both NiMh & LiPoly batteries and is waterproof, plus it has a "Forward-Reverse" setting that eliminates the "brake" function used for car racing. This model has a Standard "Tamiya" white plug for the battery.

The Duratrax is fine for NiMh batteries. It doesn't have a "LiPo" setting for low-voltage-cut-off so you would have to monitor the voltage yourself.

A battery that will fit inside the duck.

Six-cell NiMh "Sub-C" batteries (Those 6-packs used in model cars.) will only fit around the motor if you cut the pack open, modify their layout and re-insulate them to avoid shorts. (Dangerous and not recommended for the novice.)

6-cell NiMh that are made from "AA" sized cells will work. Small 2S LiPoly batteries will work great if you are familiar with the hazards of rechargeable LiPoly battery hazards. LiPoly batteries weigh about 1/2 the weight of a similar capacity NiMh battery and can be very compact. The lighter battery will require additional ballast weight for the duck.

Either of these will run the duck for 2-3 hours.

A charger for your battery.

"Universal" chargers have connectors for multiple types of batteries. Expensive high-amp "smart" chargers will charge batteries very quickly. A good thing for racing events where time is critical.

(Near right.) NiMh chargers can be small and economical.

(Far right.) A charger made specifically for a LiPoly 2S or 3S battery can be very economical as well.


Lead or non-lead shot work best. Steel BB's work great as well. 

Put them in a plastic bag and tape them in place for easy removal/adjustment. Nuts and bolts work fine if they are secured so they don't bounce around or cause electrical shorts. Put heavy components like batteries and standard ESC's as low as possible to make the duck more stable. Place the receiver on the upper front shelf for best reception. 2.4 ghz signals won't penetrate water.


Two channel radio, electronic speed control "ESC", 7.2v - 7.4v Volt battery, and charger, ballast (bb's or lead shot).  Small Phillips and Flat screwdrivers are needed for the servo and EZ-Connector. 

The bird is completely assembled with motor, drive system, rudder, rudder servo and is ready for your electronics. Includes hex wrenches for the drive coupling & rudder arm set screws.

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HUNTERS: This is not a ready-to-run swimming duck decoy, but it is REALLY CLOSE.

Entertain the ducks at your local park. Fool your friends. Hold Duck Races for charity. Go Quackers!